Can You Put Interfacing on Top of Interfacing Again if the Fabric Is Still Stretching
When making your own dress information technology will simply be a matter of time before yous come across interfacing. It's a really important office in the construction of sure styles and parts of garments so knowing more than about it is a must for dressmaking.
Find out more in my latest Youtube video or read on for notes and tips!
What is interfacing?
It'southward a type of fabric that is treated with a stiffener and it is used on the inside of garments to give construction, grade and strength to them. For example, the collar and collar stand, a cuff, a waistband, a neckline and button band are all mutual places that interfacing volition be used
Should I use interfacing?
If your pattern calls for it - aye! Without it, garments will stretch and bag out of shape, might look a bit listless and won't terminal as long.
There are then many dissimilar types of interfacing, information technology can seem a scrap overwhelming, merely I'g going to break information technology downward into the common characteristics y'all'll need to know to brand certain yous use the correct kind for your project
- Fusible and non-fusible interfacing
- Woven and non-woven interfacing
- The weight of it; low-cal weight, medium weight or firm
- The colour of it: black/charcoal or white
Fusible and non-fusible interfacing
Fusible interfacing - this type of interfacing is the easiest to use as it comes with a estrus activated adhesive on i side. Once the interfacing is heated up with the iron it will permanently stick to the textile. Pictured right.
Non-fusible or sew together-in interfacing - this type of interfacing needs to be sewn onto the master cloth just like another layer of fabric and will be held in place only past stitches. Information technology will tin effect in the main material being less 'stiff' while still being supported by the interfacing.
- You might use it on napped fabrics similar velvet or fur every bit the pressing needed to bond the adhesive of the fusible interfacing could vanquish the textile.
- Certain fabrics can be very heat sensitive, for example sequins, metallics or false leather fabrics so sew-in interfacing is more than suitable for them.
- If a fabric has a very loose or open weave, such as lace or mesh then sew together-in is better as otherwise the adhesive could seep through the fabric.
Woven, non-woven and knit interfacing
Woven interfacing - only like regular woven fabric, this blazon of interfacing will take a selvedge and therefore a grainline. When you cutting it out, you lot need to make certain that you follow the grainline equally you would when cutting out your main fabric. Pictured below left.
Non-woven interfacing - this type of interfacing is made by bonding fibres together, rather than weaving them and therefore has no grainline. It can exist cutting in whatever management and won't fray so its really economical and piece of cake to utilise. Pictured beneath right.
Knit interfacing - if you are using a knitted or stretchy, jersey cloth and the pattern calls for interfacing so y'all need to use knit interfacing. It's a lightweight knitted fabric that can either be fusible or stitch in.
Colours of interfacing
The nigh common colour of interfacing you'll come across is white merely it does too come up in black/dark charcoal colour. Information technology's rare to see any other colours.
It's best to match the shade of your fabric to the shade of interfacing. If the fabric is a thicker fabric and non-transparent then y'all could probably get away with either.
If the fabric is lightweight or has a looser weave and so its better to match the shade. If you aren't sure then always exercise a test patch as fusible interfacing especially can modify the overall colour tone of your main fabric
Choosing the weight of your interfacing
The weight or thickness of your interfacing should match your material. If in uncertainty it's probably better to become with a slightly lighter weight one equally a stiffer ane will just over boss the fabric and garment and non expect as skillful.
Lightweight interfacings are better for cotton lawns, viscose, rayon, modal
Below is an example of light weight, not woven, fusible interfacing that I've used in the collar, collar stand, buttons placket and cuff.
Medium weight interfacings are better for stiffer cottons similar poplin or shirting, denim and twills, wools, canvas
Hither is an example of where Ive used medium weight, non woven fusible interfacing on the waistband and wing front of a pair of jeans. I likewise used interfacing on the dorsum pockets and from experience woven interfacing is all-time for that, especially if you intend to oft use the pockets (I put my telephone in in that location all the time!). The woven interfacing is much more than durable in that context.
Firm interfacings aren't commonly used in normal more everyday wearing apparel yous might exist making as they are very stiff and will give a very dramatic result to a garment. So it's unlikely you'll demand them very often.
How to utilise fusible interfacing
While you lot are all the same getting used to interfacing and trying out dissimilar kinds, it's always worth applying interfacing to a chip of material outset so you can bank check that it's the correct thickness and also that your atomic number 26 is at the correct temperature. For medium weight interfacing I usually utilise a cotton wool setting only for lighter weight interfacing I'd employ a libation setting, say wool and and so slowly increase the temperature every bit needed.
- Cut out the interfacing to the same shape and size every bit your main fabric using a blueprint piece.
- Work out what side has the adhesive on in - take a look at each side and await for the sheen or slightly raised surface. This volition exist the side with the adhesive
- Lay out your main fabric on the ironing board with the wrong side/back of the cloth upward. Place the interfacing on meridian with the adhesive facing down, so that it is in contact with the back of the fabric.
- It'due south all-time practise to so place a pressing cloth over the summit to protect your fe, yous may also want to place a pressing cloth underneath equally well to protect your ironing board.
- And then agree the iron over the fabric for about 10 seconds. Endeavour to keep the atomic number 26 yet and then that the fabric layers don't motility around. Continue pressing with the iron over the whole expanse in stages as your iron volition only comprehend a certain area at once.
- Once you've finished check that the interfacing has bonded. See if yous can peel it abroad or if it'due south lifting up off the fabric in any areas and go dorsum over it as necessary. Leave information technology to cool a little before moving onto the side by side stage.
Source: https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/blog/guide-to-interfacing-for-dressmaking
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